Denver Central Market makes big changes on Larimer Street

Since it opened in 2016, Denver Central Market has remained relatively consistent, without much turnover. In fact, aside from the addition of chef Zach Spott’s Lunchboxx in 2021, there haven’t been any new purveyors at the upscale Larimer Street food hall — until now.

In August, chef Andrea Frizzi handed the reins of his two concepts – Vero, a pasta and pizza spot, and seafood market Tammen’s – over to developer Ken Wolf (who owns the food hall) in order to focus on his new Milano-inspired eatery, Risica, slated to open next year. Vero has since hired a new culinary consultant, Eric Fischer, who has revamped the menu and recipes.

In September, Culture Meat & Cheese also left the market so that its owner, longtime local restaurateur Justin Brunson, could tend to his rapidly growing dry-aged meat business, Brunson Meat Co., which is now selling bacon at 147 King Soopers and City Market stores in Colorado.

The sandwich stand will soon be replaced by Call Your Mother, the Washington, D.C.-based “Jew-ish” bagel joint that first debuted in the Mile High City last year.

“Ever since I started visiting Denver — my best friend and goddaughter live out here now — Denver Central Market has been a must-stop every time. I just love the whole vibe,” Call Your Mother co-founder Andrew Dana said in a statement.

“I knew it would be a real dream to open a Call Your Mother inside of the market but knew there was very little turnover, so when the opportunity presented itself, we had to jump,” he added.

After opening on Tennyson Street in May 2023, Call Your Mother has quickly expanded with two additional brick-and-mortars in the Capitol Hill and Hilltop neighborhoods. There is also a “Lil’ Deli” on wheels in Platt Park. Denver Central Market will mark the brand’s fifth Denver location.

But that’s not all. Earlier this month, The Local Butcher, owned by Justin Herd, quietly changed hands and now goes by Butchers at RiNo, helmed by Brent Ratliff. Herd is concentrating on The Local Butcher’s standalone location in the Oneida Park shopping center, which opened in 2019.

“[Ratliff] was already working at The Local Butcher as an employee and decided to take over the shop; it’s worked out really well,” said Tyler Gallup, the market’s director of operations.

Originally from Mississippi, Ratliff is infusing some Southern flair into the shop with new menu items like red beans and rice, Texas-style chili, organic non-GMO grits, collard greens, and sandwich offerings like rotisserie smoked chicken, pulled pork and Texas-style brisket. At his stand, customers will also find banana pudding made by Scratch Family Bakery in Five Points.

“I’ve been in Colorado’s food and beverage scene for over 20 years and have held just about every position inside different restaurants and grocers. Now, to be opening inside of Denver Central Market is a dream come true. I worked at The Local Butcher from 2020 to 2021, so in a way, it feels like coming home,” Ratliff shared.

While some patrons are sad to see longtime purveyors leave, the response has mostly been positive, Gallup said. “People are pretty excited to see a refresh in the space, especially those that have been coming here for years. Now that we’ve got these new vendors in place, it’s going to stay like this for a while.”